James Beard mentions it in his bible of bread baking, “Beard on Bread.” His quest for its roots was the same as that of many food writers.

“No two people can agree on its origins,” he groused.

Food doesn’t just appear, but this one does. All we have are urban legends, such as eating it “causes a long, ginger beard on the left elbow” or it was named by cursing a cook — “Anna, damn her.”

Anadama is moist but crusty. It looks like a brown bread, but it is made from white flour. It is slightly sweet, “toothy” with a fine crumb. In a world where every recipe has a story, how can something this good remain so mysterious?

ANADAMA MYSTERY BREAD

11⁄2 cups warm water

31⁄2 cups white flour

1⁄2 cup cornmeal

11⁄2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

4 tablespoons black molasses

11⁄2 teaspoons dry yeast

Combine ingredients except flour in a mixing bowl. Stir well. Then stir while adding flour until a dough ball forms. Knead the dough for 10 minutes. Place in an oiled bowl and cover with oiled plastic wrap. Place a towel on top and keep in a warm place to rise for an hour. Punch down the dough and knead five to 10 minutes. Roll into a ball and place on an oiled pizza pan. Cover with the plastic and towel and allow to rise in a warm place for an hour. Bake 20 to 25 minutes in a 400-degree oven or until bread sounds hollow when tapped. Allow to cool for an hour before slicing.

This makes a large, round loaf, about 2 pounds.